Himal
Chuli
A restaurant in the Midwest offers a taste of Nepal.
Author
Anonymous
One of Madison's greatest cultural assets is its plethora of ethnic
restaurants. Name a continent or country with a distinct culture anywhere
in the world, no matter how obscure or out of the way, and there's
likely to be one if not two restaurants specializing in its cuisine.
Few could be more out of the way than Himal Chuli, literally "summit
of the Himalayas."If you use the Nepali root word "chulo"
instead, the name becomes "kitchen of the Himalayas."The
tiny 24-seat State Street storefront restaurant certainly looks the
part. Hung with Nepali tapestries and prints and bathed in Indian
and Nepali music, the casual and rough-hewn Himal Chuli couldn't look
more exotic and, we presume, authentic if it were located on the slopes
of K2. One almost expects to see Sherpa guides, stomping the snow
off their cowhide boots, come through the door.
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One
of Madison's greatest cultural assets is its plethora of ethnic restaurants.
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Himal Chuli's momochas, steamed vegetable dumplings flavored with
peanut sauce and served in a tomato-coriander sauce, were named one
of the nation's 75 best food buys in the March issue of Food &
Wine. The mention of this unique culinary asset set us on a dining
course for State Street. We picked a table by the counter in the rear
under a smiling portrait of the Dalai Lama. Service was prompt and
courteous and, despite luncheon plans to the contrary, we wound up
having a Nepali feast.
The menu is simple, with both vegetarian and non-vegetarian columns.
The lunch specials trade heavily on varieties of dal, a mixed bean
soup that's a staple of the region. The dal that came with our meal
was a viscous blend that was pea-soup green and laced with beans and
onions. The spice mix in the broth gave it significant character and
strength.
We definitely needed to try the momochas, but knew those wouldn't
be enough to hold us. We set a course that soon had us eating our
way up a mountain of food. We started with mango lassis, billed as
a "refreshing yogurt drink" on the menu. It was very much
like drinking a much more liquified yogurt, dressed with enough mango
to give it a tropical freshness. Thinner than a malt and thicker than
whole milk, the lassis were pleasant but not remarkable diversions.
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One
almost expects to see Sherpa guides, stomping the
snow off their cowhide boots, come through the door.
_______________________________
We also ordered a side of whole wheat roti, partially leavened bread
also made with yogurt. The single saucer-sized slice divided into
four wedges arrived hot and seemingly fresh from the oven. It had
a wonderful flavor, presumably from the yogurt in the mix, and we
found ourselves eating far too much of it.
The momochas did prove to be excellent. Four arrived in the aforementioned
sauce, a light, almost watery compote laced with coriander. The dumplings
themselves were filled with ground vegetables and chickpeas and enough
cilantro to provide a spark of flavor.
For the main course we ordered the daily tarkara, a stew of fresh
vegetables cooked in turmeric, coriander, cumin, fresh garlic and
ginger. The tarkara du jour was "Cauli," a blend of cauliflower,
carrots, green beans, potatoes and onions. The vegetable chunks were
large and the blend of spices formed a curry that was flavorful and
interesting. The dish also came with rice (white or brown) and roti
(white or whole wheat).
Our other choice was hyala, slices of organic bison meat blended with
ginger, cumin and turmeric. Unfortunately, the bison was out of stock.
Instead we ordered Beef Buff, lean beef sautéed with green
peppers, mushrooms, onions and sliced cherry tomatoes.
The beef, thinly sliced, was lean and satisfying, but the dish was
less distinctive than we would have hoped. Next time we'll double-order
the momochas.
This
article was reprinted with the kind permission of the editors of www.food-nepal.com
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