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In Brazil, some makers have already noticed this tendency and have taken the lead. Although the first certification was only approved three years ago, specialists believe this movement will progress rapidly, repeating the phenomenon that took place overseas in markets that are more mature in offering organic cosmetics, like Europe and the United States. Many national companies already use certified natural and organic ingredients in their formulas, but according to the IBD (Instituto Biodinâmico - Biodynamics Institute), just four brands are certified as producers of organic cosmetics by the organization: Reserva Folio, in the city of Nova Friburgo in Rio de Janeiro (Southeast Brazil); Terrapi, from Bahia (Northeast); Magia dos Aromas from Botucatu and Bioessência Produtos Naturais from Barra Bonita, both cities in the state of São Paulo(Southeast Brazil). One of the greatest attractions of organics is their ecologically correct production. The producers publicly agree not to test products on animals or use species of fruit or flowers that are on the verge of extinction. People who seek organic cosmetics are also looking for a better quality of life. "Natural products are beneficial to skin health, as everything that is used on the body is absorbed into the bloodstream. Those who make this choice are generally people who are greatly attuned to their bodies and to the environment," states Simone Valladares, the owner of Reserva Folio. "We were the first Brazilian cosmetics manufacturers to be certified by IBD," she explains. According to Valladares, Reserva Folio uses 100% natural raw materials, mainly originating from Brazilian products like Brazil nuts, andiroba, cupuassu and babassu and always from projects that are socially and environmentally responsible. The group includes suppliers like the Association in the Settlement Areas of the State of Maranhão (Assema) and other certified projects. "The company has a philosophy of adding product quality to conscience in the production chain," she says.
Reserva Folio has also developed formulas of organic soaps based on certified honey and propolis.
The brand's formula use Brazilian vegetable oils and butters, rich in anti-oxidants, vitamins and minerals. Apart from that, the scenting and conservation is based on natural essence oils. "There is no use of substances derived from oil or products of synthetic or animal origin," Valladares explains. Reserva Folio has also developed formulas of organic soaps based on certified honey and propolis (a resinous substance produced by bees). "Products coming from bees have been greatly appreciated since ancient times. This is because honey, royal jelly, pollen and propolis are all beneficial to health and human well-being," Valladares points out. Biofach Latin America 2007, which took place from October 16 to 18 2007 in São Paulo, had a space exclusively dedicated to organic cosmetics. Chemical engineer Geysa Belém, the owner of Arte dos Aromas based in the city of Diadema, used the opportunity to launch a special line of natural body-hydrating butter with organic ingredients and scented oils from the Amazon, including Brazil nuts, cupuassu, buriti palm and andiroba. "Our products are free of parabens (a chemical preservative) and do not contain mineral oils, artificial pigments or ingredients of animal origin," explains Belém. According to Belém, growing demand and the concept of working with ecologically correct products encouraged her to enter the organic cosmetic market. "I have been working with organic inputs since 2004. This year I started using only certified ingredients and am awaiting the brand certification process to start exporting," she says. Moisturizers, bath and massage oils, clay for facial use and bath salts by Arte dos Aromas are sold in natural product shops, mainly in the south and southeast of Brazil. To add value to the products, the company sets up kits with baskets and sieves made by riverside communities in the Amazon and adds gourds with texts that recall the culture of the Marajoara, Kayapó, Xingu and Assurini native tribes. Another producer from São Paulo, Phytophilo, put up a stand at the Biofach to announce the pre-launching of the Phytophilo Organics line. The line, which is to be 100% organic, should arrive on the market in December 2007. According to sales supervisor Adriane Falcão, the new line includes body treatment like liquid soap, bath salts, bath foam and moisturizing cream. Hair care includes shampoo, conditioner and hair treatment. According to Falcão, all the organic components are certified, and the formulas do not contain lauryl and sodium, chemical substances that are found in all traditional cosmetics and that may cause allergies. "They (lauryl and sodium) are the hardest ingredients to replace with natural ingredients. After much research, we managed to find the natural formula to replace the function of these chemicals," she says. Concerns about environmental protection and consumer awareness for the use of natural and organic products motivated the president of Surya Brasil, Clélia Angelon, who always had a great affinity with nature. "Developing organic cosmetics had been part of our plans for years. This is an evolution of the company's thought pattern," states Angelon. ____________________________ Not only is the product organic, “the concept and According to her, the Amazônia Preciosa organic line, certified by Ecocert in April of this year, was initially launched as a natural line and took almost a year to develop. But not only is the product organic, "the concept and the package are too. The Amazônia Preciosa pots are biodegradable. It is the only package of the sort in Brazil, and we won the Embanews Highlight of the Year award," she says. The organic line includes hair care (shampoo, conditioner and mask) and facial care (moisturizer, clay mask and facial tonic). What stands out most is the clay mask package, made of wood lignin. When disposed of, it degenerates in up to eight months without polluting the environment. Surya also recently launched an organic antiseptic hand gel. The product should attract both a domestic and foreign market. "What happens is that the foreign market already has a distribution network and a demand for organic products, so it is easier to sell to American and European clients right from the start. In Brazil we are still establishing this clientele, but we are very enthusiastic. We participated in Biofach Latin America in October and have generated great interest," she says. The Forestry School is a project developed by Surya Solidária (Surya Solidarity), a Surya Brazil unit dedicated to the environment, education and social integration. Promoted in Manaus in the state of Amazonas (Northern Brazil), the project seeks to train people to work as forestry identifiers and foresters in locating and collecting plants. "The work started one year ago. They are six-month courses and include around 30 students per group. It is a project that changes according to the needs of those participating. It may even become a cooperative. The idea is to help natives support themselves from the forest and not invest in soy or cattle, which destroy habitat in the region," explains Angelon. According to her, the present foresters know the forest very well, but they lack the scientific knowledge to classify the thousands of existing plants. "The students trained are capable of working with companies that develop research or as ecological guides in the collection of plants, without losses of natural resources," she says. The Forestry Project is developed in partnership with the Botanical Garden of Manaus, which offered its installations and made the edges of the Ducke Biological Reservation available for the project.
____________________________ “We started noticing that many people complained of allergies caused by cosmetics with synthetic products.”
Cupuassu, buriti, andiroba, rosemary, lavender, marigold, lemon, orange, geranium and roses are some of the ingredients used by Magia dos Aromas, whose mission is to "research, develop and produce organic cosmetics". Having been certified by the Biodynamic Institute (IBD) a year and a half ago, the factory in the city of Botucatu in the interior of São Paulo produces lotions, moisturizing cream, soap, moisturizing oil, repellent and body deodorant. "Our family had a manipulation chemist and we started noticing that many people complained of allergies caused by cosmetics with synthetic products. They also found it hard to find natural formulas. That was what caused us to invest in the organic cosmetic factory," explains Marcos Caram, a grandson of Syrians and Lebanese and one of the partners at Magia dos Aromas. The small factory has seven employees, who work with raw material from several Brazilian states. "A significant share of the products comes from the south, north and northeast of the Amazon," states Caram. One of the main products made by the company is oil used to scent surroundings and in massage after being diluted in carrier oils. The domestic market, according to Caram, has already accepted organic cosmetics made by Magia dos Aromas, which intends to increase its production capacity in the near future. "We already have distributors in São Paulo and in Rio de Janeiro (SE Brazil) and chemists in Rio Grande do Sul and Goiás, and we hope to be selling all over Brazil in coming months," says Caram. Talks with the foreign market have also generated their first results in 2007. "We received several contacts from countries in Europe. We had already sent samples and are now awaiting the closing of the first orders," explained the excited businessman. This article first appeared in the on-line magazine Brazzil (www.brazzil.com).
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